Name Plate, Frame Markings & Tripod Hole

To install the Name plate, peel off the backing paper, and affix the metal Name Plate on the front of the plastic housing at the top of the camera. The plate is .02″ etched metal, and looks really cool.

The “Temporary Rub-On” Ground Glass marking

Note: It is recommended to leave the original ink Regular-16 markings in place until a final, permanent etching is complete. The ink Regular-16 markings can be removed at the desired time with solvent.

Your camera tech can guide you on the best way to deal with placing permanent Super-16 markings on your ground glass (also, view the item regarding Ground Glass Etching in the Main Menu). However as a temporary measure, and to help determine exactly where the markings should go, the HD-144 Kit includes a free bonus temporary rub-on transfer. This transfer is not permanent — touching its surface will rub it right off again. However it is provided for those who find value in having it, especially for determining exactly where on the Ground Glass these markings are best placed prior to going ahead with the irreversible process of etching.

The corner hatch-marks represent the full-frame photographed on the Super-16 film. The top and bottom of this Full Frame represent 1.66 Theatrical Top and Bottom. The sides of this Full Frame represent common 1.66 and 1.85 Theatrical Sides . The Main Box is Safe-Action common Top and Bottom for HDTV and 1.85 Theatrical, and Safe Action Sides for HDTV, (although since part of the side is cut off in 1.66 and 1.85 Theatrical Projection, the HDTV side is a good “safe action” cutoff when composing for Theatrical as well. In fact, composing for the Main Box while protecting all else is the ideal choice for all formats). The Full Frame should be protected even for HDTV, as the entire photographed area will be transmitted, and will be seen on LCD-type TV sets that don’t underscan.

It should be noted that as of this writing, SMPTE has still not defined standard dimensions for HDTV markings within a Super-16 frame, although the dimensions used here are a logical candidate. Still, be sure to shoot some leader that shows the markings you used so that your video transfer house can correctly line up the video composition.

The transfer is attached just like using Letraset(R) instant lettering. Clean the surface of the ground glass, and then lay the transfer into position — matte side in contact with the glass — being very careful not to touch its surface. Gently tap the transfer with your finger and it should remain in position. Hold the transfer on one side with a finger to keep it from moving, and using the orangewood stick provided, GENTLY trace over the lines. DON’T PRESS TOO HARD — YOU DON’T WANT TO DAMAGE THE GLASS. DO NOT RUB THE ENTIRE AREA OF THE TRANSFER — this will place a sticky film on the ground glass in the picture area (which can be removed with alcohol). Then just tap the dot at the center of the rub-on with a corner of the stick. Very slowly peel off the transfer and DON’T TOUCH THE SURFACE.

There is no warranty on this Temporary transfer. It is included as a free bonus item only, to be used at your own risk as you see fit.

FRAMELINE REMINDER: The HD-144 aperture opening has been designed to shoot picture right into the frameline. So when you align the ground glass markings with the aperture opening, there will be slightly more image showing on the top and bottom of the actual aperture compared to the top and bottom markings in the ground glass. This is, of course, because the ground glass markings show only the projected image area.

ACL II GROUND GLASS SPECIAL CONSIDERATIONS:

A choice needs to be made in re-marking an ACL II Ground Glass, due to the built-in light meter LED display:

If the metering system will never be used again:

The metal block with the LEDS should be removed, and the ink markings with the 7 vertical circles on the Ground Glass should be removed with a solvent.  With the Ground Glass LDC markings (7 vertical circles) on the left as you look at the Glass, the new HDTV/Super-16 marking should be placed overtop of the old Regular-16 marking with common left sides.  The faint circular image of where the meter took readings will be seen through the viewfinder as shifted more to the right side of the frame.

If it is desired to keep the faint circular image of the meter in the center, (it’s always nice when things look symmetrical though the finder), then the center of the new HDTV/Super-16 markings should be aligned with the center of the old Regular-16 markings. The entire Ground Glass will need to be shifted sideways by approximately 1.1mm to be correctly aligned with the Super-16 opening in the Aperture Plate — this will require minor enlargement of the holes in the Ground Glass holder that fasten the Ground Glass in place. It may require a slight filing of the inside front housing if the shifted Ground Glass rubs against it in any way.

If the metering system is to be retained:

With the black block containing the LCDs on the left side, the new HDTV/Super-16 marking should be placed overtop of the old Regular-16 marking with common left sides.  The faint circular image of where the meter takes readings will be seen through the viewfinder as shifted more to the right side of the frame, and this is indeed where the readings will be taken.

TRIPOD HOLE:

It is not necessary to re-center the hole in the camera’s base. Why?  Imagine that the camera is mounted on a dolly and track that can move the camera sideways. By not re-centering, then during a 180 degree pan it’s as if the dolly does a slide sideways of 1.1mm . It is less than trivial, even on the longest of lenses.